The Hernandes house

Perhaps the best experience we had during the full two month trip was an invite back to the Hernandes farm. This is the place where we went on the horseback riding tour, led by the head of the family, Eduardo Hernandes.

That we were invited as guests to Eduardo's home is a great honour. Their family and ours, along with Rainne and Di, were very engaged in conversation during the meal we shared at Eduardo, Javier, and Grevin's mother, Jesus' house. So engaged, that we missed the time that Javier was to meet us at the river to take us back (a half hour drive).

During that conversation, it was well established that neither the English speaking, nor the Spanish had much of the other language. Also established was that all concerned understood that we were on the same playing field and that we were all willing to stumble thru with our Spanglish, or Espangles (much laughter, we all had heard these terms before).

What resulted was an immediate fondness for each other. It was most humbling, yet heartwarming to see that our limitations were what drew peoples from miles apart together.

So, with much gratitude, we accepted the invitation.

Grevin offered to take us the long trip via golf cart. The kids piled in the back with our overnight bags (the 'back' is the same box behind the golf cart that carried the kids and I when we first traveled to Dona Anna's gardens. It has a sign that says "danger of explosion and death"). Grevin stopped at Javier's and his house in Nosara to show us the great art work Javier did on the side of the balcony and outer wall (I think the fish is a Marlin).

Their house is modest, but boasts these pieces of art, partly to show Javier's talent, and partly to express with pride, where their bread and butter comes from. The house rental office walls are plastered with pictures of the Capitans (some 8 or 10 of them), their boats and the beautiful catches (Marlin, Sword fish, Tuna...) they make on a regular basis. I'm not sure if Nosara Paridise Rentals aka Craig actually gets a cut of these trips they refer to people, or if it's goodwill, but I'm sure that they do get at least a trip a month to go fishing. We were shown many a video of successful fishing expeditions and dolphin sightings (100 dolphins swimming beside the boat is extraordinary).

Shortly before our arrival, we passed by Karol, the oldest child of Eduardo's. She was pushing her bike and asked Grevin to take her back pack. It's a long long trek from school to home. The road goes thru town (I don't think I need to mention the conditions of the roads again), along the Nosara river, the road narrow and winding and hilly. When I say that we had to cross the river 3 or 4 times, it does not mean over that many bridges. It's through the shallow, but running river that has cantaloup-sized rocks.

When we arrived, me immediately met Gisselle, Eduardo's wife, and were reacquainted with Karol, Emanuel, and Eleceo, their children. Their house is bigger than I'd expected, with 5 bedrooms off of the kitchen/living room. We sat and visited at the table with coffee grown, dried and ground on the farm, cheese (not cheese, we were told, but a hand pressed soft equivalent) with soft tortillas (hand made, I learned later, from a mix), and for the kids a lemonade. Grevin left to his house, he'd be going to his new English lessons in Nosara first thing in the morning.

After a dinner of the standard fair; rice and beans, chicken with vegetables and a salad, we went out in the dark to go shrimping. We each had a flashlight, which was very ineffective for the walk there. Despite many warnings I stepped in a cow pie (very embarrassing for a well seasoned country girl). I won't live that one down for a while.

The river was at the most, up to our knees. We walked with our shoes on. I'd deliberated over what shoes to wear. Runners for riding, or flip flops for coolness. Flip flops won out, thank goodness. It was very refreshing to cool off from the usual 30+ day. Gisselle carried the plastic bag, the receptacle for the shrimp. Eduardo and Erroll carried the metal spears (which look much like stainless steel hot dog sticks. Fresh water shrimp vs hot dogs....hmmm, what a choice). Lindsay, Emanuel, and I tagged along for the walk.

The hunt was fairly successful. Eduardo silently taught Erroll to look in the shallows, shining the flashlight to see the glowing red eyes. Erroll managed to get 3 shrimp (we think they are more like crawfish), not bad for a first time. The whole time we were out, there was an interesting noise, piercing the night air. We asked (having to learn the Spanish word for sound...everything was a lesson. Sonido) what it was, It's toads, just small ones, we're told. Sapos. Then I hear a shriek from behind. Quiet little Gisselle was splashing through the shallows, trying to get away from a toad the size of a soft ball. I laughed and managed to remark in Spanish how she could be so tough as to grab the rather large shrimp (varying in size from 5"to 9") which sometimes grab on with their pincers, which really hurt, but a seemingly harmless toad will send her flying. Eduardo explains that there is urban myth that the toads will squirt poison from their foreheads. I've seen similar reactions here to mice and bats.

We were asked when we get up. I was afraid that my teenagers would sleep well beyond a farmer's typical milking time, but it turns out that it was the weekend, and they were worried we'd be getting up too early. 5 o'clock is when we ended up getting up. The roosters made sure of that. We were told that it's good to have two, because predators might eat one and you always need at least one to keep the flock going. I think they might've been over their limit.

After a big breakfast of the shrimp we caught, rice and beans, left over chicken, sweetened coffee, and drink that I couldn't identify, we went out to milk the cows. Gisselle caught the baby, pulled it over to the Mamma and tied it so that it couldn't reach her teets. This, I'm guessing, makes mamma's milk let down. I took a turn, then Lindsay, then Gisselle impressed us all with her milking technique.

Back at the house, I pulled out the craft materials that Rainne left behind and we all got busy making bracelets. The kids worked together to make a friendship bracelet. It was quite sweet. During this exchange, Gisselle and I tried to communicate. It was less successful than Eduardo and I, but we managed. I asked about their solar panel. We climbed a hill and she showed me the panel on top of the house, then we took a look at the unit inside. I understood her to say that they pay only 1000 colones per month for power. That's approximately $2.00! The power company owns the equipment. They pay more in the rainy season, as there isn't enough sun.

After lunch we all made our way down to the river. Linds, Erroll and I were given horses to ride, while everyone else walked. This was a common courtesy, much like at meals, where the table was set for the guests and Eduardo, while the others looked on. They either ate at the counter while we ate, or later, after we were done. At first, it was such a surprise that I asked for the children to join us, but soon realized it must be their custom, so I relented along even though it went against my grain.

We played keep away in the river with Eleceo's ball for about 3 hours. It's the most fun I've had in the water for a long, long time. Jesus and Grevin came to see us, Grevin playing keep away with mucho gusto.

With sadness, I said we should head back. We had a quick afternoon meal (these people know how to eat!) and had to run to the taxi, who waited for a long time (we'd over stayed again). Much sadness, and promises to write and come back to stay.